Here, at Qrucifix we are one the very few brands who work with surplus materials and we are leveraging its true benefits.Image link

First, let's see the term: surplus material a.k.a Deadstock.

You might have come across the term left-over fabric, surplus stock, deadstock. A few decades ago this term was not part of the fashion sector and if you included this in your conversation, you would have raised eyebrows. 

The whole time, the industry however was and has been very much aware of this term.

Now, bear in mind- the term surplus material may appear in the consumer's mindset as a second hand or reject fabric; this circular alternative is however very much equivalent to its raw version except that it is excess and not needed anymore.

So, what is deadstock?
Deadstock is essentially pre-consumer waste whereas a fashion house orders excess fabric (more than it's necessary) to cover production losses from inefficiency and scraps; but it can also be due to lack of transparency within garment factories.

Why aren't they just reusing these fabrics?
The answer is rather simple. 
Each season has its set quantity a fashion brand orders the factory to produce. Which means relevant amount is being used up during production.
You remember access fabric to cover inefficiency and scraps? Now, here is when surplus comes in.
A lot of surplus, often hundreds of metres, which needs to be stored.

If there is one thing factories are lacking on is storage space. Materials therefore cannot be stored, and of course other factors play their part too, such as accidental damage to the material over time (spillage, stains, decolouring caused by UV light, sun).

Maybe using these for another season?
One colour shade normally appears in a collection once a year. Storing fabrics for a year is not possible. 

Now, bear in mind- the term surplus material may appear in the consumer's mindset as a second hand or reject fabric; this circular alternative is however very much equivalent to its raw version except that it is excess and not needed anymore.

Surplus- as we now know is pre-consumer waste. Fabric that is produced and is not in need- meaning it can be accurately classified as a zero waste alternative, since it requires no resourced to produce nor to dye. 

Bamboo & Cotton

Now, just as an example- let's examine the most widely used biodegradable materials within the fashion sector in order to understand the resources required during pre- and post-production stages.
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Cotton

Cotton is currently accounting for 24% of global fibre production.
In a nutshell, 1kg of cotton requires 20m2 of land and 10.000 L of water to produce (it sounds surreal but the stats are here). During this process- of course; there are number of severely nasty chemicals & pesticides used that are not only ruining the soil and the eco-system but are also unhealthy to our bodies (you got it right- our skin is like a giant sponge: absorbs anything that gets in direct contact with it).

PS: you can only make 5 t-shirt from 1kg cotton.

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Bamboo

Bamboo is considered a rather more sustainable alternative to cotton which can be true when it comes to the cultivating phase, the same can’t necessarily be said about the manufacturing process.
The growing of bamboo requires 150 times less water and less pesticides, however the fibre extraction process leaves highly toxic waste behind (learn more here).

We can draw a conclusion that no matter what the fashion fabric producers do- there is always waste being created that effects the eco-system and is potentially hazardous to our health too (let alone all the chemical dyes). 

Visualisation

Let's imagine that your garment is made from a special material that requires no land to grow, no pesticides used, no waste water accumulated, zero animals harmed and absolutely zero waste created.
This is called: surplus, left over, deadstock, excess fabric; the only word you need to keep an eager eye out for.
 

Breaking the Poly-Myth

Yes.. You know, we know.
Synthetic fabrics do tend to have a rather bad rep. Let's take Polyamide as a perfect example.
Science says there is no evidence pointing to Polyamide having harmful effects when coming directly in contact with the skin. We can however admit that densely knitted poly or man-made fibres can trap body-moisture which leads to bacteria growth. To tackle this problem, we implemented our very own solution to keep your hygiene on track and your intimate parts bacteria-free.

What is our solution?
Loose 'knit', breathable, pre-washed mesh fabric treated with plant dyes. 
And.. best of all- undies are featuring bamboo gusset to protect your 'huha' during the day and to trap access discharge.

TREATING of OUR POLY FIBreS

We treat our poly fibres as we treat our family members: with care.
All surplus fabrics are currently reaching us from our trusted UK supplier in its pristine, raw form- unbleached, undyed. This soon undergoes a cold cleansing wash to remove invisible remnant factory stains using sodium bicarbonate (essentially baking soda). 
Washing is followed by phases of natural dying which again contributes to the removal of bacteria turning the fabric into a hypoallergenic, chemical-free love bomb to protect you for the day.
The process is simple, yet requires careful attention.

FOR THE LOVE OF SURPLUS 

So, why do we love deadstock so much?
Because we love giving a new life to something that otherwise would be discarded. It comes with creative challenges too which we are also fond of. 
Finally, we think surplus represent rebirth. The rebirth of something new, fresh and contemporary. Surplus when used correctly with the 'right ingredients' and right intention can be very much be used as a sexy, sophisticated and attractive weapon to wear.

Resources
Time to Sew 2020, accesses 9 October 2022, <https://timetosew.uk/sustainability-overstock-fabric/>
Fashion Insider 2022, accessed 9 October 2022, <https://fashioninsiders.co/toolkit/top-tips/leftover-fabric/>
Residus 2022, accessed 9 October 2022, <https://residusofficial.com/our-standards/>
The Voice of Fashion 2019, accessed 8 October 2022,<https://thevoiceoffashion.com/sustainability/features/textile-surplus-the-untapped-potential--3252>
TRVST 2018, accessed 8 October 2022, <https://www.trvst.world/sustainable-living/fashion/deadstock-fabric-sustainability/>
Good Maker Tales 2021, accessed 8 October 2022, <https://goodmakertales.com/what-is-deadstock-fabric/>